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Machine parts which shall be dismounted and - after maintenance - shall be reassembled have to be marked before dismantling.
By this, they will be put in their right places after repair or maintenance.
Tapered driving keys, hollow keys, flat keys
These keys are removed by blows on a cotter driver or non-ferrous metal arbor (drift) opposite the driving-in direction.
Gib-head keys
Between hub and nose of the key the key extractor is driven and beaten through by hammer blows.
Figure 31 - Driving out of the
gib-head key by cotter extractor
Laid-in keys, Woodruff key, tangential key
By means of puller shaft and hub are drawn apart, so that the joining elements can be taken out.
Taper sleeves
A cotter is inserted into the oblong hole of the taper sleeve and driven in by hammer blows.
Figure 32 - Driving out of a
taper shank by cotter
Taper pin used as a key
The joint is undone by drilling the taper pin out or by pulling the hub off by a puller.
Cotter and taper pin as a cotter
It is driven out with the help of a hammer and suitable non-ferrous metal arbor (drift) by blows opposite the driving-in direction.
Tightening key
The locking screw is loosened then, the tightening key can be loosened by the adjusting screw.
If the keyed joints appear to be too difficult to undo, the hub should be carefully heated up by a gas burner - make sure that the shaft does not become hot.
Then it is tried to drive or pull the key out.
If this is not possible, the shaft keyway, too, is heated up with the help of a second gas burner. Then the key can be driven out.
By heating up the hub, even very firm shaft and hub joints can be slackened so that they can be separated by a puller.
How is a tightening key
fine-adjusted?
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How are tapered driving keys
loosened?
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How are laid-in keys
loosened?
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