 |
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Adhesive |
- A substance used to hold materials together by surface attachment. The term is used interchangeably with cement. |
|
Attaching |
- Fastening of sole unit or sole and heel to a lasted upper. |
|
Back-seam |
- The seam down the back of a closed upper which is often covered by a vertical strip called a 'back strap'. |
|
Backpart |
- The rear of the shoe. |
|
Binding |
- The leather or tape strip that is used to cover the top line of some uppers. |
|
Bottom |
- The part of the shoe below the foot. |
|
Bottom filling |
- Cork, leather or felt used to fill the cavity between the sole and insole on the forepart and seat. |
|
Brogue |
- A lacing shoe with a closed front and serrated and punched upper. |
|
Casuals |
- Low heels footwear, produced without fasteners . |
|
Cement |
- See 'adhesive'. |
|
Cement shoe |
- A shoe in which the sole is cemented to the lasted upper. |
|
Cement lasting |
- The attaching of the upper to the insole by cement. |
|
Chain stitch |
- A stitching configuration which uses a bottom thread only. It is rarely used for closing uppers (See Fig. A.1) |
|
Chappal |
- Open backed sandals with cross-over straps on the forepart. |
|
Clicking |
- The cutting of upper components from skins or sheet material. |
|
Closing |
- Assembling the components of the upper by stitching or other fastening methods. |
|
Conditioning |
- See 'Mulling' . |
|
Counter |
- A sheet component, usually with skived edges, which is inserted into the back of the upper to add rigidity. |
|
Court shoe |
- Low cut shoe for women, with medium height heels and no fastenings. |
|
Dress shoe |
- Although originally the term only referred to shoes for formal wear, it is now used for any shoe which is not a casual, sport or work shoe or slipper. |
|
Embossing |
- A method of printing in or raising up ornamentation on a surface by heat and pressure. |
|
Feather edge |
- The edge of the insole. |
|
Fibreboard |
- Sheet material made from long vegetable fibres, used for insole, stiff e-ners, etc. |
|
Finishing |
- Final cleaning, polishing and inspection operations. |
|
Flash |
- Plastic attached to a moulding down the mould parting line. |
|
Folded edge |
- The edge of a skived upper which has been turned over to give a neat finish. |
|
Forepart |
- The front of a shoe. |
|
French binding |
- Finishing the top edge of the upper with fabric binding (this process is explained in the text) . |
|
Heel |
- The rear portion of the bottom of a shoe . |
|
Hide |
- The skin of a large animal. |
|
Injection moulding |
- A technique in which pre-heated plastic is forced into a cool cavity where it adopts the shape of the cavity before solidifying. |
|
Insole |
- The layer of sheet material between the foot and the sole. |
|
Last |
- A mould of wood or plastic on which the shoe is built. Lasts may be |
|
Lasting |
solid or hinged in the middle.- The moulding of the upper material to the shape of the "last. Often, the lasting margin is attached to the insole bottom. |
|
Leather finishing |
- The final processing of the surface of the leather after lasting. |
|
Lining |
- Quarter and vamp linings are of lightweight leather or other leather substitute. |
|
Lock stitch |
- A stitching configuration which uses a top and bottom thread. It is the most popular method of stitching together upper components (see Fig. A. 1) . |
|
Making |
- A term used to describe lasting and associated processes. |
|
Marking |
- The printing or stamping of sizes and other details on linings. |
|
Mocassin |
- Shoes in which the vamp is a single piece of leather passing completely under the foot. |
|
Moulding-on |
- Injection moulding of a sole to its finished shape directly to a lasted upper. |
|
Mulling |
- The application of water or water vapour to leather in order to temporarily increase its flexibility. |
|
Pattern |
- Sheets of metal or board shaped to the outline to which the upper component will be cut. |
|
Pattern grading |
- Scaling sizes up and down from a standard sized pattern. |
|
PVC |
- Polyvinyl Chloride, a thermoplastic compound which has outstanding resistance to water, alcohols, acids and alkalis. It is widely used for shoe uppers and soles. |
|
Pulling over |
- It often constitutes the first making operation in which the upper is pulled over the last. |
|
Quarters |
- The part of the upper above the vamp line. |
|
Roughing |
- See 'Scouring'. |
|
Rubbing down |
- The flattening of seams to reduce their bulk. |
|
Scouring |
- Removal of the grain and finish on the lasted margin of the upper by wire brush or abrasive so that it may receive cement for attaching. |
|
Seat |
- The area of the shoe under the wearer's heel. |
|
Shank piece |
- Bridge of wood, metal or plastic which is attached to the bottom of the insole. It is often referred to as the 'shank' . |
|
Size |
- A code number which distinguishes a particular shoe length. |
|
Skiving |
- Thinning and tapering the edge of upper components to reduce the bulk of seams and to increase wearer comfort (see Fig. A.2 which illustrates various skiving methods) . |
|
Sock |
- Inner sole partially or completely covering the top of the insole. |
|
Sole |
- The part of the shoe in contact with the ground. |
|
Splitting |
- Dividing leathers into two or more layers. |
|
Style |
- Usually, a particular design of footwear available in a variety of sizes, fittings and colours. |
|
Stitch marking |
- Marking stitch guide-lines on the upper with chalk, crayon, etc. |
|
Suede |
- Leather having a nap surface. |
|
Tabs |
- The front part of the quarters on Derby lacing shoes which carries the eyelets and covers the tongue. |
|
Tack lasting |
- Lasting uppers to insoles using tacks as fasteners. |
|
Toe puff |
- Sheet stiffener attached inside the toe of the upper. |
|
Top piece |
- The layer of the heel in contact with the ground. It is also called the 'top lift'. |
|
Trimming |
- The removal of surplus material from the upper or from the edge of the sole and heel. |
|
Unit sole |
- Combined sole and heel prefinished before attachment to the shoe. Also called 'unit'. |
|
Upper |
- The part of the shoe that covers the top of the foot. |
|
Vamp |
- The lower part of the upper which is attached to the sole between the toe-cap and the quarter. |
|
Vulcanising |
- A chemical process used to melt, mould or attach rubber soles to lasted uppers by heat or pressure in a closed cavity. |
|
Welding |
- A method of joining thermoplastic footwear components by the application or generation of heat. |
|
Welt |
- A leather strip stitched to the margin of the upper in welted footwear. The welt is also stitched to the top surface of the sole. |
|
Width |
- A letter coding for measuring shoe girths . |
Figure A.1 Stitching Configurations
|
|
STITCH TYPES |
|
|
|
SEAM TYPES |
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
|
BINDING TYPES |
|
Figure A.2 Various skiving methods
|
Raw edge and closed seam edge |
|
|
Lasting edge |
|
|
Skive for heated iron edge |
|
|
Skive for cemented and folded edge |
|
|
Lapped seam edge |
|
Annex II.1: Key to suppliers' numbers given in Annex II.2
|
Equipment Ref. No. |
Operations |
Suppliers (see list of names and addresses in Annex II. 2) |
|
1 |
Upper cutting |
18, 74, 78, 79, 124, 41, 138, 111, 64 |
|
2 |
Leather splitting |
5, 27, 78, 29, 17, 4, 125, 149, 150, 151. |
|
3 |
Lining marking |
|
|
4 |
Stitch marking |
5, 84, 144 |
|
5 |
Hole punching |
78, 120, 124, 4, 55, 139, 64, 115 |
|
6 |
Sock embossing |
105, 5, 18, 77, 78, 124, 35, 101, 62 |
|
7 |
Leather skiving |
18, 78, 35, 125, 4, 16, 104, 11, 70, 57, 19, 3 |
|
8 |
Edge folding |
78, 126, 4, 16, 136, 11, 55, 115 |
|
9 |
Upper stitching |
129, 22, 67, 98, 31, 68, 123, 103, 69, 16, 85, 73, 46, 137, 70, 89, 71, 142, 72, 114, 115, 107, 110 |
|
10 |
Seam reducing |
97, 78, 37, 126, 11, 64 |
|
11 |
Taping |
78, 106, 118 |
|
13 |
Eyeletting |
95, 5, 6, 119, 27, 79, 121, 4, 16, 136, 106, 58, 3 |
|
15 |
Puff attaching |
32, 124, 11, 64 |
|
16 |
Upper trimming |
32, 124, 11, 64, 78 |
|
17 |
Insole cut and bevel. |
5, 78, 4, 135, 67, 59 |
|
21 |
Upper conditioning |
118, 24, 28, 33, 34, 16, 86, 61, 88, 143 |
|
22 |
Lasting |
21, 118, 94, 5, 23, 28, 78, 30, 33, 7, 122 124, 83, 129, 130, 4, 16, 104, 47, 11, 48, 136, 88, 139, 108, 109, 62, 56, 14, 91, 15, 59, 64, 60, 66, 141 |
|
23 |
Tack removal |
66, 59 |
|
24 |
Heat setting |
78, 138, 139, 15, 91, 115 |
|
25 |
Bottom roughing |
78, 129, 135, 136, 52, 12, 139, 91, 64 |
|
29 |
Sole laying |
21, 25, 78, 99, 79, 127, 4, 132, 134, 44, 47, 91, 116 |
|
31 |
Upper finishing |
24, 76, 32, 124, 35, 102, 16, 134, 43, 109, 92 |
|
35 |
Sole moulding |
1, 2, 78, 99, 38, 122, 81, 39, 131, 42, 104, 50, 52, 13, 140, 65, 3 |
|
37 |
Sole preparation |
78, 124, 136, 91, 64 |
|
44 |
Sole stitching |
78, 124, 36, 37, 80, 45, 91, 64 |
|
46 and 47 |
Seat and heel nailing |
96, 26, 78, 4, 16, 136, 47, 138, 91, 64, 92 |
|
49 and 50 |
Heel and edge trimming |
28, 78, 32, 79, 8, 40, 4, 104, 138, 143, 92 |
|
51 |
Bottom finishing |
5, 78, 121, 124, 100, 102 , 16, 133, 135, 136, 51, 138, 91 |
|
52 |
Upper welding |
79, 101, 132, 137, 53, 55, 139, 90, 60 113, 115 |
|
54 |
Last string attaching |
39, 82, 112 |
|
62 |
Injection moulding |
122, 38, 125, 81, 39, 128, 42, 9, 10, 50, 13, 63 |
Annex II. 2: Names and addresses of equipment suppliers
|
Supplier number |
Name and address |
| |
BELGIUM |
|
1 |
ACEC, 52 Dok, GHENT, B-9000 |
| |
CANADA |
|
2 |
BATA ENGINEERING, c/o BATA INTERNATIONAL, Don Mills, Ontario |
|
3 |
USM Ltd., 2610 Bennet Ave., MONTREAL H1V2T8 |
| |
CZECHOSLOVAKIA |
|
4 |
INVESTIA, Praha 10, KODANSKA, Dept. 921 |
| |
FRANCE |
|
5 |
ANVER S.A., 4, rue Suchet, 92470 MAISONS-ALFORT |
|
6 |
V. BERAUD, 1 avenue Duchesne, 26104 ROMANS |
|
7 |
R. FAVRAUD, Route de Vars-Roffit, GOND-PONTOUVRE |
|
8 |
P. GOUDIN, 49 ST-PIERRE, MONTLIMART |
|
9 |
MAUSERIET, B.P. 16, LES HERBIERS - 85500 |
|
10 |
MOURALT et Cie., 63, rue d'Allonville , NANTES |
|
11 |
Ets. OMIC, 10, rue Barbanegere, 75019 PARIS |
|
12 |
PROST-DAME, 94-100 rue Baraban, LYON |
|
13 |
SEFOM, 19 rue Théodore de Banville, 75017 PARIS |
|
14 |
SOFRAGRAF, 5, rue Marx-Dormy, 94230 CACHAN |
|
15 |
SUTEAU, M. DUTEAU, rue de Cholet 49, ST MACAIRE-EN-MAUGE |
| |
HUNGARY |
|
16 |
KAEV K.G.V., 1064 BUDAPEST VI ROZSA FU55 |
| |
INDIA |
|
17 |
HINDUSTAN ENGINEERING WORKS, 1328/2 Jawahar Nagar, KOLHOPUR 416001 |
|
18 |
APPEX MACHINERY, 37/209 A Saran Nagar, Dayalgaghrd,- AGRA- |
|
19 |
CHENS BROTHERS, 50 S. Tangra Rd, CALCUTTA 700046 |
|
20 |
M/S BATA INDIA Ltd., Batanagar, 24 PARGANAS, W. Bengal |
| |
ITALY |
|
21 |
ALBE DI ALBELLI Giuseppe, 51015 Monsummara Terme, VI Via Francesca Nord 182, |
|
22 |
ALFA FIAM, Via Ampere 104, MILANO 20131 |
|
23 |
ARNERI Franco, SS494 Localita S. Antonio di Parona, 27020 PARONA |
|
24 |
T. DI BALASSO, Via Albini 3, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
25 |
BANF, Viale Rafaelo Sanzio,106, 27036 MORTARA |
|
26 |
BETA, Via Giacomo 8 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
27 |
BOMBELLI, S. Lorenzodi Parabiago, 20015 MILANO |
|
28 |
BRUGGI S.A., C. So. Torino 114, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
29 |
CAMOGA S.A., Via Oroboni 27, 20161 MILANO |
|
30 |
CERIM, C. So Novara 218, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
31 |
CMCI, Via G. da Mogliano 1, FERMO |
|
32 |
COLLI F.G.B., Via Gioberti 17, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
33 |
DEROV, Via Gambolina 19, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
34 |
ELECTTRO, Via P. Luigi Albini 3, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
35 |
EELEGI Spa, Via Beccaria 22, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
36 |
FALAN, Via Trieste 6, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
37 |
FIMAE , Via Bellini 23, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
38 |
FERRARI and Figli, Piazza Duca d'Aosta 12, 20124 MILANO |
|
39 |
GESTA, Via Silvio Pellico 12, 20027 RESCALDINA |
|
40 |
GUATTEO TERENZIO, Via Carlo Alberto 160, 27023 CASSOLNOVA |
|
41 |
LOMBORDO, Via S. Cecilia 6/24, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
42 |
LORENZIN, Strada Adriatica, 35020 ALBIGNOZEGO |
|
43 |
MANTEGAZZA, 20089 ROZZANO MILANO |
|
44 |
MEC-VAL, Via V. Bellini 21, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
45 |
MINO LA, Via Baldrini 20, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
46 |
NECCHI Spa., Via Rismondo 78, 27100 PAVIA |
|
47 |
NIEVE, Via della Gioia 46/A, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
48 |
OMAV, Via M. Gianolio 15, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
49 |
OMSA, Via Sabotino 19, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
50 |
OTTOGALLI, Zona Industrials 9A Strada, 35100 PADOVA |
|
51 |
PISARONI G., Via Manzoni 7, 20019 SETTING MILANESE |
|
52 |
PLASTIMATIC, Via Alessandria 7, LEGRANO |
|
53 |
POLETTO, F., Via Marzabotto 27, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
54 |
REMAC N., Via Gianolio 35, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
55 |
SAGITTA, Via Farini 43, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
56 |
SILVA FAUSTINO, Via Rosmini N. 10, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
57 |
SPILOTTI and Figli, Via Aguzzafame 14, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
58 |
S.P.S., Via Sesia 14, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
59 |
TECNO-2, Via Orto 70, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
60 |
TORTI and BOCCA, Via M. Gianolio 33, 27029 VIGEVANO |
|
61 |
RINALDI E. , Via 24 Maggio 38, P.O. Box 61, 20015 PARABIAGO |
|
62 |
SICOMEC, Via Mameli 16, 27024 CILAVEGNA |
|
63 |
TOMAYER E., Via Bornassa 24, 28066 GALLIATE |
|
64 |
TORIELLI, Via L. da Vinci 130A, 20090 ZINGORE DI TREZZANO S/N |
|
65 |
UNION S.A., Via Pierobon 47, 35010 LIMENA |
|
66 |
Valente V., Via G. Modera 3, 20129 MILANO |
| |
JAPAN |
|
67 |
BROTHER IND. 35-9 Chome , Horita-Dori ,. Mizuho-ku, NAGOYA |
|
68 |
CONSEW INTERNATIONAL, Yamajin Bldg, l Chome, Higashi-ku OSAKA |
|
69 |
TOKYO JUKI INDUSTRIAL CO., 23 Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku-ku, TOKYO |
|
70 |
SEIKO SEWING MACHINE Co., 6 Asakusa Yoshino-cho, 1 chome, Taito-ku, TOKYO |
|
71 |
SINGER SEWING MACHINE, 25, 2-Chome, Azabu-Ichibeicho, MINATO-KU |
|
72 |
SUPER-ROLL Mfg. Co, 11-18, 2 chome, Harakawa, Nishiyodogawa-ku OSAKA |
|
|
NETHERLANDS |
|
73 |
MUVA, Valkenburg 5110, Postbus 33, CREMERSTRAT 10 |
| |
UNITED KINGDOM |
|
74 |
ART PATTERN and KNIFE Co., Bedford St., LEICESTER LE1 3JP |
|
75 |
G. BARNSLEY Ltd., Cornish St. SHEFFIELD S6 3AD |
|
76 |
BINKSBULLOWS Ltd., Pelsall Rd. BROWNHILLS, Staffs |
|
77 |
BLOCKMASTER, 56 Benwell Road, LONDON N7 7BA |
|
78 |
BUSM Co., Ltd., Belgrave Road, LEICESTER LE4 5BX |
|
79 |
COX AND WRIGHT Ltd., P.O. Box 27, Wellingborough Rd., RUSHDEN |
|
80 |
FOOTWEAR PLANT AND EQUIPMENT Co., 10-14 Roman Road, BRISTOL BS5 6EB |
|
81 |
FOSTER-FINCH Ltd., Greengates, ACCRINGTON, Lanes. |
|
82 |
GILTSPUR INDUSTRIES, Egypt Road, NOTTINGHAM NG7 7GU |
| |
UNITED KINGDOM |
|
83 |
INTERNATIONAL SHOE MACHINERY Ltd., Radnor Road, WIGSTON, LE82XY |
|
84 |
LIVINGSTONE and DOUGHTY, 17 Mandervell Road, CADBY Leicester |
|
85 |
G. MACPHERSON Ltd., 2/4 Bridgford Road, WEST BRIDGFORD, Nottingham |
|
86 |
PROCESS EQUIPMENT DEVELOPMENTS, 35 Strode Road, WELLINGBOROUGH NN81JU |
|
87 |
REMPSTONE ENGINEERING Ltd., Bakewell Road, LOUGHBOROUGH Leicester |
|
88 |
SALIENT ENGINEERING Ltd., 4 Oak Lane, BRISTOL BS5 1JY |
|
89 |
SINGER CO., Ltd., 91 Coleman Road, LEICESTER LE54LE |
|
90 |
STAFFORD TOOL and MACHINERY CO., St, Patrick Place, STAFFORD |
|
91 |
STANDARD ENGINEERING CO., Evington Valley Road, LEICESTER LE5 5LZ |
|
92 |
TRUE BROS. Ltd, 98 Cannock St. LEICESTER LE4 7HR |
| |
USA |
|
93 |
ACKERMAN-GOULD Co., 10 neil Court, OCEANSIDE, L.I. N.Y. 11572 |
|
94 |
AMERICAN SHOE MACHINES, 30 Nashua St. WOBURN, Mass. |
|
95 |
AMERSHOE, 456 Nordhoff Place, ENGLEWOOD, N.J. 07631 |
|
95 |
AUTO SOLER Co., ATLANTA, Georgia |
|
97 |
BOSTON MACHINE WORKS, 7-17 Willow St., LYNN, Mass. 01903 |
|
98 |
CAMATRON MACHINES, 155 West 26th St., NEW YORK |
|
99 |
COMPO SHOE MACHINERY Co., 125 Roberts Road, WALTHAM, Mass. |
|
100 |
DIAMOND MACHINERY Co., River Road, LEWISTON, Maine |
|
101 |
T.J. EDWARDS Inc., 25 William St, P.O. Box 8, BOSTON, Mass. 02130 |
|
102 |
L. FREEMAN Co., 1819 Freeman Ave., CINCINNATI, Ohio 45214 |
|
103 |
H. JAFFE, 40-11 Skillman Ave. LONG ISLAND CITY, N.Y. 11104 |
|
104 |
LUDLOW ENTERPRISES Inc., 333 Scholes St., BROOKLYN, N.Y. 11206 |
|
105 |
MARKEM MACHINE CO., P.O. Box 480, KEEN, New Hampshire |
|
106 |
PRIME MFG. Co., 545 Washington St., LYNN, Mass. 01901 |
|
107 |
REECE FOLDING M/C Co, P.O. Box 279, WOBURN, Mass. |
|
108 |
M. SCHWABE M/C's, 147 Prince St., BROOKLYN N.Y. 11201 |
|
109 |
SENCO PRODUCTC INC., 8485 Broadwell Road, CINCINNATI, Ohio 45244 |
|
110 |
SINGER Co., 275 Centennial Ave., PISCATAWAY, N.J. 08854 |
|
111 |
SOUTHERN SHOE M/C's, 450 Allied Drive, NASHVILLE, Tenn. 37204 |
|
112 |
STITCH-RITE Corp., Locust Str. IPSWICH, Mass 01938 |
|
113 |
THERMATRON, 60 spence St., BAYSHORE, N.Y. 11706 |
|
114 |
UNION SPECIAL M/C Co., 400 N. Franklin St. CHICAGO, 111. 60610 |
|
115 |
USM CORP., 181 Elliott Str., BEVERLEY, Mass. |
| |
USSR |
|
116 |
TECHMASH EXPORT, Mosfilmovskaja 35, MOSKOW 117-330 |
| |
FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY |
|
117 |
ADLERMASCHINEN WERKE, 4800 BIENEFELD Pf. 103/lo5 |
|
118 |
ALBEKO SHOE MACHINERY, D-6000 FRANKFURT/MAIN, spf 119180 |
|
119 |
BERNING AND SOHNE, 56 Wupper Tal 2, OBERDORNEN |
|
120 |
BIMA, 7450 HECHINGEN, P.O. Box 1205 |
|
121 |
DESCO, 607 Langen bei Frankfurt, Pittlestras. 46 |
|
122 |
DESMA, 28074 CHIM BEI BREMEN, Desmastr. 3/5 |
|
123 |
DURKOPPWERKE, 4800 BIELEFELD , Niederwall 29 |
|
124 |
DVSG, 6 FRANKFURT/MAIN, 13/31 Fredrich-Ebert Anlag |
|
125 |
FORTUNA, 6000 FRANKFURT/MAIN 70, Dreieccstr., 59 |
|
126 |
G. FRANK, 678 PIRMASENS, Haupstr. 16 |
|
127 |
Dr. Ing. FUNCK, MUNCHEN-PASING, Haidelweg 20 |
|
128 |
GOD MASCHINENBAU 8 MUNCHEN 2, Sonnenstr. 27 |
|
129 |
w. GUTH, 6780 PIRMASENS-RUHBANK, Erlenbrunner St. 51 |
|
130 |
E.G. HENKEL, 6078 NEU ISENBURG, Pf. 365 |
|
131 |
HESTIKA WERKZ, D-7140 LUDWIGBURG, Pf. 580 |
|
132 |
KIEFEL-KORTING, D-8228 FREILASSING, Sude erstr. 3-7 |
|
133 |
LIBA, 8671 NAILA OBERKLINGENSPORT |
|
134 |
T. LIEBROCK, 678 PIRMASENS-ERLENBRUNNER, Kettrighofstr 34 |
|
135 |
E MOHR ACH, 6661 RIESCHWEILER, Nunschweilerstr. 3-5 |
|
136 |
MOENUS, P.O. Box 1367A, FRANKFURT/MAIN, West 13 |
|
137 |
G. PFAFF, 675 KAISERSLAUTERN |
|
138 |
J. SANDT, 678 PIRMASENS, Lembergerstr. 82, Pf 940 |
|
139 |
SCHON and Cie., 5 PIRMASENS, Pf. 115 |
|
140 |
R. SCHLICHT, 2 HAMBURG 70, Brauhaussteeg 12 |
|
141 |
SIECK INTERNATIONAL, 8580 BAYREUTH, Pf. 2928 |
|
142 |
SINGER A.G., FRANKFURT/MA IN 6, Gutleutstr 42-44 |
|
143 |
STEIN, 678 HINTERWEIDENTHAL, Turnstr. 5 |
|
144 |
J. STROBEL and SOHNE, 8000 MUNCHEN W. 12, Heimeranstr. 68-70 |
| |
DENMARK |
|
145 |
V. PEDERSEN, DK-4270 |
| |
SPAIN |
|
146 |
ALVAREY-VALLS , Consejo di Ciento 360, BARCELONA 9 |
|
147 |
P. FREIRE, Paulino Freiro Pineiro 26, BONZAS (Vigo) |
| |
SWEDEN |
|
148 |
RIWI-MASKINER, Nya Agnesfridsvagen 186, MALMO |
|
149 |
AB TEXOTAN, Box 132, S-431-22 MOLNDAL 1 |
| |
BRAZIL |
|
150 |
Industria de Maquinas Enko Ltda., Ave Pedro Adams, Filho 795, Caixa Postal 24, NOVO HAMBURGO, RS |
|
151 |
Maquinas SEIKO Ltda., Caixa Postal 86, NOVO HAMBURGO, RS |
Boon, Gerard K.: Technology and Employment in Footwear Manufacturing (Alphen aan den Rijn, Sijthoff and Noordoff, 1980).
Chee Peng Lim: Manufacture of Leather Shoes and Bricks in Malaysia in A.S. Bhalla (ed.)/Technology and Employment in Industry" (Geneva, ILO, 1981) .
ILO: The employment implications of technological choice and of changes in international trade in the leather and footwear industry, Report II, Second Tripartite Technical Meeting for the Leather and Footwear Industry (Geneva, ILO, 1979) .
Little, I.M.D., and J.A. Mirrlees: Manual of Industrial Project Analysis in Developing Countries. Volume II. Social Cost Benefit Analysis (Paris, Development Centre Studies, OECD, 1968).
Little, I.M.D., and J.A. Mirrlees: Project Appraisal and Planning for Developing Countries (London, Heinemann Educational Books, 1974).
McBain, N.S.: The Choice of Technique in Footwear Manufacture for Developing Countries (London, Ministry of Overseas Development, H.M.S.O., 1977).
McBain, N.S.: "Developing Country Product Choice: Footwear in Ethiopia" in World Development, Vol. 5, Nos 9/10, Sept./Oct. 1977.
McBain, N.S. and Pickett, J.: "Developing country export potential and developed country adjustment policy: An illustrative study of Ethiopian and Ghanaian footwear production" in Adjustment for Trade: Studies on the Industrial Adjustment Problems and Policies (Paris, OECD, 1975).
McBain, N.S. and Forsyth, D.J.C.: "An intermediate technology for shoe-making in less developed countries", in Appropriate Technology, Vol. 2, No. 3, Nov. 1975.
Squire, L., and H.G. van der Tak: Economic Analysis of Projects (Baltimore, The John Hopkins University Press, 1975).
Thornton, J.H.: Textbook of footwear manufacturer (London, Temple Press, 1964).
UNIDO: Guidelines for Project Evaluation, (New York, United Nations, 1972).
UNIDO: Guide to Practical Project Appraisal. Social Benefit-Cost Analysis in Developing Countries (New York, United Nations, 1978).
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ALGERIA |
- Société nationale des Industries des Peaux et Cuirs (SONIPEC), Siège-social Alger, 100, rue de Tripoli, Hussein-Dey. |
| | |
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ARGENTINA |
- Camara Industrial Marraquinera Argentina, 1219 Buenos Aires |
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|
|
AUSTRALIA |
- Footwear Manufacturers Association, 65 York St. Sydney, N.S.W. |
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|
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AUSTRIA |
- Verband der Schuindustrie, Bavernmarkt 13, 1011 Vienna 1. |
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|
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BELGIUM |
- Federation beige de l'Industrie de la Chaussure (FEBIC), 91-97 Boulevard M. Lemonnier, 1000 Bruxelles |
| | |
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BRAZIL |
- Associaco Brasileira dos Quimicose Techicos da Industria do Couro, Rua Urugai 155, C.P. 2075 Port Alegre , R.S . |
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|
BULGARIA |
- Scientific and Technical Institute for Leather and Shoe Industry, Str. "Industrialna", No. 11, Gabrovo. |
| | |
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CANADA |
- Footwear and Leather Institute of Canada, 14 Eiffel-Mark, P.O. Box 355, Place Bonaventure, Montreal, Quebec H5A IB5 |
| | |
|
COLOMBIA |
- Comite Sectorial de la Industria del Cuero y del Calzado y sus. Carrera 13, 27-00 Piso 10, Bogota. |
| | |
|
CZECHOSLOVAKIA |
- Shoe and Leather Research Institute (VUK) 762 65 Gottwaldov. |
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|
|
DENMARK |
- T.I. Leather Research Laboratory, Bronshojvej, 17 2700 Copenhagen |
|
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GERMAN DEM. REP. |
- Forschungsinstitut für Schuhtechnologie, 485 Weissenfels, Am Muhlberg 9 |
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IRELAND |
- Federation of Irish Footwear Manufacturers, Confederation House, Kildar St., Dublin 2 |
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|
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ETHIOPIA |
- National Leather and Shoe Corp., Box 2516 Addis-Ababa |
| | |
|
FINLAND |
- State Institute for Technical Research, Leather Investigations Laboratory, Lönnrotinkatu 37, HELSINKI 18. |
| | |
|
FRANCE |
- Federation Rationale de l'Industrie de la Chaussure de France, 30 avenue Georges V, 75005 Paris. |
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|
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GREECE |
- Greek Shoe and Leather Organisation, Paneplstimiou 64, Athens TT 141. |
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GUATEMALA |
- Institute Centroamericano de Investigacion y Tecnologia Industrial (ICAIT), Avenida la Reforma 4-47, Zona 10, Guatemala City |
| | |
|
HUNGARY |
- Research Institute of the Leather, Artificial Leather and Footwear Industries, 1047 Budapest Paksi Jozsef u43. |
| | |
|
INDIA |
- All India Footwear and Rubber Goods Manufacturers' Association, 15A Horniman Circle, Fort, Bombay. |
| | |
|
INDONESIA |
- Indonesia Leather Institute- The Academy of Leather Technology, Djl. Di Ponegoro 101, Djakarta. |
| | |
|
ITALY |
- Institute Tecnico Industriale di Stato del Cuoio e Derivati, Corso Cirie 7, 10152 Turin |
| | |
|
JAPAN |
- Japan Shoe Manufacture Federation, 3 Kajicho 1- Chome, Kanda, Chiyodaku, Tokyo 101 |
| | |
|
MEXICO |
- Asociacion Mexicana de Quimicos y Tecnicos del Cuero A-C., Tehuantepec 255, Despachos 101-102, Apdo. Postal 27-227, Mexico 7. |
| | |
|
MOROCCO |
- Syndicat des Fabricants de Chaussures, 262, boulevard Mohamed V, Casablanca. |
| | |
|
NETHERLANDS |
- Institute for Leather and Shoe Research TNO, Mr. van Coothstraat 55, 5141 ER Waalwijk. |
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|
|
NEW ZEALAND |
- New Zealand Leather and Shoe Research Association, Private Bag, Palmerston North, 82-108 Palmerston North |
| | |
|
NIGERIA |
- Leather Research Institute, P.B. 1052, Zaria. |
| | |
|
PAKISTAN |
- Pakistan Leather Goods Manufacturers' and Dealers' Association, 6 Badshahi Rd., Garden West, Karachi. |
| | |
|
PANAMA |
- Asociacion de Industriales del Cuero y Calzados de Panama, c/o Fabrica de Calzado CODA, Panama City |
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|
|
POLAND |
- Institute of Leather Industries, Ulzgierska, 73 Lodz 11 |
| | |
|
RUMANIA |
- The Institute of Hide and Shoe Research, Bella Breiner St., 93, 74259 Bucharest 4 |
| | |
|
SOMALIA |
- Hides and Skins and Leather Development Centre, P.O. Box 24, Mogadiscio. |
|
| |
|
SPAIN |
- Asociacion Quimica Espanola de la Industria del Cuero, Av. Jose Antonio 608, Barcelona 7. |
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|
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SRI LANKA |
- Ceylan Leather Products Corp., 141 Church Rd.., Mattakkuliya, Colombo 15 |
|
| |
|
SUDAN |
- Hides, Skins and Leather Institute, P.O. Box 8, Khartoum South. |
|
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SWEDEN |
- Shoe Suppliers' Association, Grevgatan 34, Box 5512, S-114 85 Stockholm. |
|
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SWITZERLAND |
- Verband Schweiz Schuhindustrieller, Rotel St. 84, PF 8042 Zurich. |
|
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TUNISIA |
- Centre national du Cuir et de la Chaussure (CNCC) 6, rue Djebel Mansour, Tunis. |
| | |
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TURKEY |
- Turkish Leather Research and Training Institute, P.O. Box 26, Pendik, Istanbul. |
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UNITED KINGDOM |
- Shoe and Allied Trades Research Association, Satra House, Rockingham Rd. Kettering Northants |
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U.S.A. |
- Sole Leather Council, 321 Summer St., Boston 02210., Mass. |
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|
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U.S.S.R. |
- Central Scientific Research Institute for the Leather and Footwear Industry, Ulitsa Piatnitskaia, 74, Moscow. |
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VENEZUELA |
- Asociacion nacional de Industriales del Cuero, Esquina Puente Anauco, Apdo Postal 6974-2860, 3020 Caracas. |
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FED. REP. GERMANY |
- Haupverband der Deutschen Schuhindustrie, Stresemannstr. 12, D-4000 Dusseldorf. |
| | |
|
YUGOSLAVIA |
- Institute for Leather Footwear and Rubber, Visenjicka 94, Belgrad. |
How much 1 received or paid annually for X years is worth today
|
Year |
5% |
6% |
8% |
10% |
12% |
14% |
15% |
1696 |
18% |
20% |
22% |
24% |
25% |
26% |
28% |
30% |
35% |
40% |
|
1 |
0.952 |
0.943 |
0.926 |
0.909 |
0.893 |
0.877 |
0.870 |
0.862 |
0.847 |
0.833 |
0.820 |
0.806 |
0.800 |
0.794 |
0.781 |
0.769 |
0.741 |
0.714 |
|
2 |
1.859 |
1.833 |
1.783 |
1.736 |
1.690 |
1.647 |
1.626 |
1.605 |
1.566 |
1.528 |
1.492 |
1.457 |
1.440 |
1.424 |
1.392 |
1.361 |
1.289 |
1.224 |
|
3 |
2.723 |
2.673 |
2.577 |
2.487 |
2.402 |
2.322 |
2.283 |
2.246 |
2.174 |
2.106 |
2.042 |
1.981 |
1.952 |
1.923 |
1.868 |
1.816 |
1.696 |
1.589 |
|
4 |
3.546 |
3.465 |
3.312 |
3.170 |
3.037 |
2.914 |
2.855 |
2.798 |
2.690 |
2.589 |
2.494 |
2.404 |
2.362 |
2.320 |
2.241 |
2.166 |
1.997 |
1.849 |
|
5 |
4.330 |
4.212 |
3.993 |
3.791 |
3.605 |
3.433 |
3.352 |
3.274 |
3.127 |
2.991 |
2.864 |
2.745 |
2.689 |
2.635 |
2.532 |
2.436 |
2.220 |
2.035 |
|
6 |
5.076 |
4.917 |
4.623 |
4.355 |
4.111 |
3.889 |
3.784 |
3.685 |
3.498 |
3.326 |
3.167 |
3.020 |
2.951 |
2.885 |
2.759 |
2.643 |
2.385 |
2.168 |
|
7 |
5.786 |
5.582 |
5.206 |
4.868 |
4.564 |
4.288 |
4.160 |
4.039 |
3.812 |
3.605 |
3.416 |
3.242 |
3.161 |
3.083 |
2.937 |
2.802 |
2.508 |
2.263 |
|
8 |
6.463 |
6.210 |
5.747 |
5.335 |
4.968 |
4.639 |
4.487 |
4.344 |
4.078 |
3.837 |
3.619 |
3.421 |
3.329 |
3.241 |
3.076 |
2.925 |
2.598 |
2.331 |
|
9 |
7.108 |
6.802 |
6.247 |
5.759 |
5.328 |
4.946 |
4.772 |
4.607 |
4.303 |
4.031 |
3.786 |
3.566 |
3.463 |
3.366 |
3.184 |
3.019 |
2.665 |
2.379 |
|
10 |
7.722 |
7.360 |
6.710 |
6.145 |
5.650 |
5.216 |
5.019 |
4.833 |
4.494 |
4.192 |
3.923 |
3.682 |
3.571 |
3.465 |
3.269 |
3.092 |
2.715 |
2.414 |
|
11 |
8.306 |
7.887 |
7.139 |
6.495 |
5.938 |
5.453 |
5.234 |
5.029 |
4.656 |
4.327 |
4.035 |
3.776 |
3.656 |
3.544 |
3.335 |
3.147 |
2.752 |
2.438 |
|
12 |
8.863 |
8.384 |
7.536 |
6.814 |
6.194 |
5.660 |
5.421 |
5.197 |
4.793 |
4.439 |
4.127 |
3.851 |
3.725 |
3.606 |
3.387 |
3.190 |
2.779 |
2.456 |
|
13 |
9.394 |
8.853 |
7.904 |
7.103 |
6.424 |
5.842 |
5.583 |
5.342 |
4.910 |
4.533 |
4.203 |
3.912 |
3.780 |
3.656 |
3.427 |
3.223 |
2.799 |
2.468 |
|
14 |
9.899 |
9.295 |
8.244 |
7.367 |
6.628 |
6.002 |
5.724 |
5.468 |
5.008 |
4.611 |
4.265 |
3.962 |
3.824 |
3.695 |
3.459 |
3.249 |
2.814 |
2.477 |
|
15 |
10.380 |
9.712 |
8.559 |
7.606 |
6.811 |
6.142 |
5.847 |
5.575 |
5.092 |
4.675 |
4.315 |
4.001 |
3.859 |
3.726 |
3.483 |
3.268 |
2.825 |
2.484 |
|
16 |
10.838 |
10.106 |
8.851 |
7.824 |
6.974 |
6.265 |
5.954 |
5.669 |
5.162 |
4.730 |
4.357 |
4.033 |
3.887 |
3.751 |
3.503 |
3.283 |
2.834 |
2.489 |
|
17 |
11.274 |
10.477 |
9.122 |
8.022 |
7.120 |
6.373 |
6.047 |
5.749 |
5.222 |
4.775 |
4.391 |
4.059 |
3.910 |
3.771 |
3.518 |
3.295 |
2.840 |
2.492 |
|
18 |
11.690 |
10.828 |
9.372 |
8.201 |
7.250 |
6.467 |
6.128 |
5.818 |
5.273 |
4.812 |
4.419 |
4.080 |
3.928 |
3.786 |
3.529 |
3.304 |
2.844 |
2.494 |
|
19 |
12.085 |
11.158 |
9.604 |
8.365 |
7.366 |
6.550 |
6.198 |
5.877 |
5.316 |
4.844 |
4.442 |
4.097 |
3.942 |
3.799 |
3.539 |
3.311 |
2.848 |
2.496 |
|
20 |
12.462 |
11.470 |
9.818 |
8.514 |
7.469 |
6.623 |
6.259 |
5.929 |
5.353 |
4.870 |
4.460 |
4.110 |
3.954 |
3.808 |
3.546 |
3.316 |
2.850 |
2.497 |
|
21 |
12.821 |
11.764 |
10.017 |
8.649 |
7.562 |
6.687 |
6.312 |
5.973 |
5.384 |
4.891 |
4.476 |
4.121 |
3.963 |
3.816 |
3.551 |
3.320 |
2.852 |
2.498 |
|
22 |
13.163 |
12.042 |
10.201 |
8.772 |
7.645 |
6.743 |
6.359 |
6.011 |
5.410 |
4.909 |
4.488 |
4.130 |
3.970 |
3.822 |
3.556 |
3.323 |
2.853 |
2.498 |
|
23 |
13.489 |
12.303 |
10.371 |
8.883 |
7.718 |
6.792 |
6.399 |
6.044 |
5.432 |
4.925 |
4.499 |
4.137 |
3.976 |
3.827 |
3.559 |
3.325 |
2.854 |
2.499 |
|
24 |
13.799 |
12.550 |
10.529 |
8.985 |
7.784 |
6.835 |
6.434 |
6.073 |
5.451 |
4.937 |
4.507 |
4.143 |
3.981 |
3.831 |
3.562 |
3.327 |
2.855 |
2.499 |
|
25 |
14.094 |
12.783 |
10.675 |
9.077 |
7.843 |
6.873 |
6.464 |
6.097 |
5.467 |
4.948 |
4.514 |
4.147 |
3.985 |
3.834 |
3.564 |
3.329 |
2.856 |
2.499 |
1. Full name...............................
2.
Address.................................
..................................................
..................................................
3. Profession (check the appropriate case)
(a) Established footwear manufacturer
If yes, indicate scale of production..............
.....................................................................
(b) Would-be footwear manufacturer............
(c) Government official ................
If yes, specify position:..........
...............................................
(d) Employee of a financial institution If yes, specify position:.........(e) University staff member- ........
(f) Staff member of a technology institution.......................
If yes, indicate name of institution........................
..............................................................................
(g) Staff member of a training institution........................
If yes, specify....................
..........................................
(h) Other.....................................
If yes, specify...........................
4. From where did you get a copy of this memorandum? Specify if given free or bought..................
.............................................................................................................................................................5. Did the memorandum help you achieve the following (Check the appropriate cases)
(a) Learn about footwear manufacturing techniques you were not aware of..........
(b) Obtain names of equipment suppliers..........
(c) Estimate unit production costs for various scales of production/technologies. ..........
(d) Order equipment for local manufacture........
(e) Improve your current production technique....
(f) Cut down operating costs.....................
(g) Improve the quality of footwear produced.................
(h) Decide which scale of production/technology to adopt for a new footwear factory..........
(i) If a government employee, to formulate a national footwear manufacturing strategy.....
(j) If an employee of a financial institution, to assess a request of a loan for the establishment of a footwear production unit...............
(k) If a trainer in a training institution, to use the memorandum as a supplementary training material...........................
(l) If an international expert, to better advise counterparts on footwear manufacture technologies...............................
6. Is the memorandum detailed enough in terms of:
|
- Description of technical aspects...... |
Yes | |
No |
|
- Names of equipment suppliers.......... |
Yes | |
No |
|
- Costing information................... |
Yes | |
No |
|
- Information on socio-economic impact.. |
Yes | |
No |
|
- Bibliographical information........... |
Yes | |
No |
If some of the answers are "No", please indicate why below or on
a separate sheet of
paper
............................................................
............................................................
............................................................
............................................................
............................................................
............................................................
7. How may this memorandum be improved if a second edition were
to be
published?
............................................................
............................................................
............................................................
............................................................
8. Please send the Questionnaire, duly completed to:
Technology and Employment Branch INTERNATIONAL LABOUR OFFICE, CH-1211 GENEVA 22 (Switzerland)
9. In case you need additional information on some of the issues covered by this memorandum the ILO and UNIDO would do their best to provide the requested information.
 |
 |
