 |  | Small-Scale Manufacture of Footwear (ILO - WEP, 1982, 228 p.) |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | Acknowledgements |
 |  | Preface |
 |  | CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION |
 |  | I. Objectives of the memorandum |
 |  | II. The footwear industry |
 |  | III. Types of footwear |
 |  | IV. Operation reference numbering system and tables of technical data |
 |  | V. Scales of production |
 |  | VI. Use of the technological information |
 |  | CHAPTER II. MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY FOR TYPE 1 FOOTWEAR |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | I. Operation sequence |
 |  | II. Detailed description of processing stages |
 |  | II.1 Cutting uppers (Operation reference No. 1) |
 |  | II.2 Upper preparation |
 |  | II.3 Upper stitching (Operation reference No. 9) |
 |  | II.4 Stitched upper finishing |
 |  | II.5 Bottom component preparation |
 |  | II.6 Making |
 |  | II.7 Shoe finishing and packing (Operation reference No. 31) |
 |  | III. Table of technical data |
 |  | III.1 Material handling resources, work force and production floor area |
 |  | III.2 Workforce allocation: Table II.4 |
 |  | III.3 Equipment specification: Table II.5 |
 |  | IV. Floor plans for production areas |
 |  | CHAPTER III. MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGIES FOR FOOTWEAR TYPES 2 TO 6 |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | I. Type 2 footwear: Leather-upper, cement-lasted shoes with directly moulded-on soles |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | I.1 Scrim attaching (Operation reference No. 32) |
 |  | I.2 Heel Core attaching (Operation reference No. 33) |
 |  | I.3 Bottom solutioning (Operation reference No. 34) |
 |  | I.4 Direct sole mouldinq-on (Operation reference No. 35) |
 |  | I.5 Subsequent operations |
 |  | I.6 Tables of technical data for type 2 footwear |
 |  | II. Type 3 footwear: Leather-upper, tack-lasted shoes with machine-sewn leather soles |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | II.1 Insole preparation (Operation reference No. 36) |
 |  | II.2 Sole preparation (Operation reference No. 37) |
 |  | II.3 Insole tacking (Operation reference No. 38) |
 |  | II.4 Tack lasting (Operation reference No. 39) |
 |  | II.5 Bottom pounding (Operation reference No. 40) |
 |  | II.6 Bottom cementing (Operation reference No. 41) |
 |  | II.7 Sole laying (Operation reference No. 42) |
 |  | II.8 Last removal (Operation reference No. 43) |
 |  | II.9 Sole stitching (Operation reference No. 44) |
 |  | II.10 Sole levelling (Operation reference No. 45) |
 |  | II.11 Seat nailing (Operation reference No. 46) |
 |  | II.12 Heel attaching (Operation reference No. 47) |
 |  | II.13 Re-lasting (Operation reference No. 48) |
 |  | II.14 Heel trimming (Operation reference No. 49) |
 |  | II.15 Edge trimming (Operation reference No. 50) |
 |  | II.16 Bottom finishing (Operation reference No. 51) |
 |  | II.17 Tables of technical data |
 |  | III. Type 4 footwear: Welded synthetic upper, string lasted shoes with moulded-on soles |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | III.1 Cutting and welding upper components (Operation reference No. 52) |
 |  | III.2 Welding upper components together (Operation reference No. 53) |
 |  | III.3 Lasting string attaching (Operation reference No. 54) |
 |  | III.4 String lasting and moulding-on of soles (Operation reference No. 55) |
 |  | III.5 Sock insertion (Operation reference No. 56) |
 |  | III.6 Tables of technical data |
 |  | IV. Type 5 footwear: Stitched synthetic upper cement-lasted sandals and casual shoes with built or unit soles |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | IV.1 Sole and insole preparation (Operation reference No. 57) |
 |  | IV.2 Heel preparation (Operation reference No. 58) |
 |  | IV.3 Lasting uppers (Operation reference No. 59) |
 |  | IV.4 Heel attaching (Operation reference No. 60) |
 |  | IV.5 Sole, finishing (Operation reference No. 61) |
 |  | IV.6 Tables of technical data |
 |  | V. Type 6 footwear: Single injection, moulded plastic sandals |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | V.1 Single injection moulding technique and equipment (Operation reference No. 62) |
 |  | V.2 Tables of technical data |
 |  | CHAPTER IV. FRAMEWORK FOR PROJECT EVALUATION |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | I. Factors influencing the choice of technology |
 |  | II. Evaluation methodology |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | II.1 Estimation of cost items |
 |  | II.2 Estimation of total annual costs and of gross profits |
 |  | II.3 Sources of technical and economic data |
 |  | II.4 Hypothetical examples of the application of the evaluation methodology |
 |  | III. Evaluation of technologies adopted by established footwear factories in developing countries |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | III.1 Alternative technologies for type 1 footwear: A Ghanaian case study |
 |  | III.2 Comparison of alternative types of footwear at fixed levels of scale: Ethiopian case study |
 |  | III.3 Effects of scale on manufacturing technology for type 1 footwear: Ghanaian and Ethiopian case studies |
 |  | IV. Concluding remarks on the choice of technology and specialisation |
 |  | IV.1 Need for preliminary marketing investigations |
 |  | IV.2 Specialisation and organisation of production |
 |  | CHAPTER V. FRAMEWORK FOR NATIONAL DECISIONS |
 |  | (introduction...) |
 |  | I. Comparison of alternative footwear products |
 |  | I.1 Capital and labour requirements for different technologies and types of footwear |
 |  | I.2 Product choice, resource allocation and the satisfaction of basic needs |
 |  | II. Economic and social appraisal of alternative technologies and products |
 |  | II.1 Social versus private benefit-cost analysis |
 |  | II.2 Appraisal of alternative technologies for type 1 footwear |
 |  | II.3 Data requirements and sensitivity analysis |
 |  | III. Towards a national footwear manufacturing strategy |
 |  | III.1 Factors influencing a national footwear strategy |
 |  | III.2 Comparative advantage, social considerations and product choice |
 |  | III.3 Backward linkages and availability of raw materials |
 |  | III.4 Employment, technological choice and skill requirements |
 |  | III.5 Other factors |
 |  | APPENDICES |
 |  | Appendix I - Glossary of technical terms |
 |  | Appendix II - List of equipment suppliers |
 |  | Appendix III - Selected bibliography |
 |  | Appendix IV - Selected list of technical institutions |
 |  | Appendix V - Present worth of an annuity factor |
 |  | Questionnaire |
 |  | Other ILO publications |
 |  | Back cover |