 |
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| |
Interest Rate | |||||||||||
| |
5% |
10% |
12½% |
15% |
20% |
25% | ||||||
| |
Factor | |||||||||||
|
Years |
Present worth |
Annual capital recovery |
Present worth |
Annual capital recovery |
Present worth |
Annual capital recovery |
Present worth |
Annual capital recovery |
Present worth |
Annual capital recovery |
Present worth |
Annual capital recovery |
|
1 |
0.952 |
1.050 |
0.909 |
1.100 |
0.889 |
1.125 |
0.870 |
1.150 |
0.833 |
1.200 |
0.800 |
1.250 |
|
5 |
0.784 |
0.321 |
0.621 |
0.264 |
0.555 |
0.281 |
0.497 |
0.298 |
0.402 |
0.334 |
0.328 |
0.372 |
|
10 |
0.614 |
0.130 |
0.386 |
0.163 |
0.308 |
0.181 |
0.248 |
0.199 |
0.162 |
0.239 |
0.107 |
0.280 |
|
15 |
0.481 |
0.096 |
0.239 |
0.131 |
0.171* |
0.151* |
0.123 |
0.171 |
0.065 |
0.214 |
0.035 |
0.259 |
|
20 |
0.377 |
0.080 |
0.149 |
0.117 |
0.095 |
0.138 |
0.061 |
0.160 |
0.026 |
0.205 |
0.016 |
0.253 |
|
25 |
0.295 |
0.071 |
0.092 |
0.110 |
0.053 |
0.132 |
0.030 |
0.155 |
0.011 |
0.202 |
0.004 |
0.251 |
|
50 |
0.231 |
0.065 |
0.057 |
0.106 |
0.029 |
0.129 |
0.015 |
0.152 |
0.004 |
0.201 |
0.001 |
0.250 |
|
Term |
Definition |
| | |
|
Back Beam |
A beam from which yarn is fed during the sizing process |
| | |
|
Ball Warp |
Parallel threads in the form of a leased twistless rope wound into a large ball by hand or by a mechanical balling machine |
| | |
|
Beam |
A cylinder (of wood or metal) on which yarn is wound, usually in sheet form |
|
| |
|
Beaming |
The primary operation of warp-making in which ends withdrawn from a warping creel, evenly spaced in sheet form, are wound onto a beam to substantial length (usually a multiple of loom warp length) |
| | |
|
Beating-Up |
The third of the three primary motions involved in weaving. It consists in forcing the pick of weft yarn left in the warp shed up to the ‘fell’ of the cloth |
| |
|
|
Bobbin |
A cylindrical or slightly tapered barrel, with or without flanges, on which yarn is wound |
| |
|
|
Carded Yarn |
A yarn produced from fibres that have been carded but not combed |
| |
|
|
Combed Yarn |
A yarn prepared from sliver which is first carded and later combed in order to produce a more regular and smoother final product |
| | |
|
Continuous-filament yarn |
A yarn composed of one or more filaments that run the whole length of the yarn. Note: Yarns of one or more filaments are usually referred to as monofilament or multifilament, respectively |
| | |
|
Cop |
A form of package of yarn such as is spun on a mule spindle |
| |
|
|
Creel |
A structure for mounting supply packages in textile processing |
| |
|
|
Crimp |
(a) The waviness of a fibre |
| | |
|
Dent |
The unit of a reed, comprising a reed wire and a space between adjacent wires |
| | |
|
Doubled Yarn |
Yarns composed of two or more ‘singles’ yarns which are twisted (folded) together |
| |
|
|
Drawing-In |
The process of drawing (threading) the warp ends through the eyes of the healds and the dents of the reed |
| | |
|
Dressing (Warp) |
The operation of assembling on a beam, yarns from ball warps, beam, or chain prior to weaving. ‘Scotch dressing’ (dry taping, Scotch beaming) - a method of preparing striped warp beams for weaving |
| | |
|
Drop Wire (Pin) |
One of a series of metal strips suspended on individual warp threads during warping or weaving. If a thread breaks its drop pin falls, causing the machine to stop |
| |
|
|
End |
(a) Weaving - An individual warp thread |
| | |
|
Fell |
The line of termination of the cloth in the loom formed by the last weft thread inserted |
| | |
|
Fents |
Short lengths of fabric (perfect or imperfect) cut from an end, piece, or lump of fabric |
| | |
|
Gait or Gait-Up |
General terms used to describe the positioning of the warp, healds and reed in the loom in readiness for weaving |
| | |
|
Grey Goods (cloth) |
Woven or knitted fabrics as they leave the loom or knitting machine - not bleached or finished |
| |
|
|
Hank |
(a) A ‘skein’ of yarn in coiled form |
|
| |
|
Heald (heddle) |
A looped cord, shaped wire, or flat steel strip with an eye in the centre through which a warp yarn is threaded so that its movement can be controlled in weaving |
|
Heald Frame (shaft, stave) |
A rectangular frame on which healds are mounted in the loom |
| |
|
|
Jacquard Mechanism (weaving) |
A shedding mechanism, attached to a loom, that gives individual control of up to several hundred warp threads and thus enables large figured designs to be produced |
| |
|
|
Jean |
A 2/1 warp-faced twill fabric used chiefly for overalls |
| | |
|
Lease |
A formation of the ends of a warp that maintains orderly arrangement of the ends during warping, preparation processes, and weaving |
| | |
|
Leno Weave |
A weave in which warp threads are made to cross one another between the picks |
| | |
|
Let-Off Motion |
A mechanism for controlling the delivery and tension of the warp during weaving |
| | |
|
Loom Efficiency |
The ratio of the average picks per minute actually inserted by the loom (taking account of normal stoppages) to the loom speed in picks per minute, expressed as a percentage |
| |
|
|
Looming |
A term covering the processes involved in preparing the weaver’s beam for the loom |
| |
|
|
Loomstate |
See Grey Cloth |
| |
|
|
Loose Reed |
A reed so mounted in the loom sley as to yield under the pressure of the shuttle at beat-up should the shuttle fail to reach the receiving box |
| | |
|
Lump |
A length of fabric (usually unfinished) longer than the piece length |
|
| |
|
Negative shedding |
An operation in which the movement of the healds in controlled in one direction only, the return movement being effected by springs or weights |
| |
|
|
Picker |
The part of the picking mechanism of the loom that actually strikes the shuttle |
| | |
|
Picking |
The action of passing the weft through the warp shed during weaving |
|
| |
|
Piece (fabric) |
A length of fabric of customarily accepted unit length |
| | |
|
Plating machine |
A machine for the continuous folding of fabric into fixed warp-way lengths; usually the folding is at 1 metre or 1 yard intervals |
| | |
|
Positive-shedding |
An operation in which the movement of the healds in both directions is under direct control |
| |
|
|
Reed |
A device consisting of wires closely set between an upper and a lower baulk. In weaving the reed is used to maintain the required spacings of the warp threads between healds and cloth fell and to guide the shuttle and to beat-up the weft picks |
| | |
|
Sateen |
A weft-faced weave in which the binding places are arranged with a view to produce a smooth cloth surface, free from twill |
| | |
|
Satin |
A warp faced weave in which the binding places are arranged with a view to produce a smooth cloth surface, free from twill |
| | |
|
Section-warping |
A two-stage machine method of making a loom warp - there are a number of systems |
| | |
|
Selvedge |
The longitudinal edges of a fabric formed during weaving |
| | |
|
Set, Sett |
(i) A term used to indicate the spacings of ends and picks in a
woven cloth |
| | |
|
Sizing (for weaving) |
The application of size to warps on yarns, generally before weaving, to act as a protective film against abrasion |
| | |
|
Slasher sizing |
A method of machine warp sizing from back beams |
| | |
|
Sley (slay) |
That oscillating part of a loom, positioned between the healds and the cloth fell which carries the reed and shuttle boxes |
| | |
|
Slubs |
Short, abnormally thick places in a yarn |
| | |
|
Sow-box |
The container (trough, pan) of the size solution of a warp-sizing machine |
| | |
|
Take-up Motion |
A mechanism to control the winding - forward of the cloth during weaving |
|
| |
|
Taping |
A term for ‘slasher’ warp sizing |
| | |
|
Temple (weaving) |
A means for holding the fabric out to width as it is woven in the loom and before it is wound onto the cloth roller |
| | |
|
Twisting-in |
The operation of twisting ends of a new warp to the corresponding ends of an old warp to enable the supply to be maintained without re-threading through the healds and reed |
| | |
|
Voile |
A light-weight, open textured, plain weave cloth made from fine yarns with sufficient twist to produce a, compact, round thread |
| | |
|
Warp |
Threads lengthways in a fabric as woven |
| | |
|
Warpers’ Beam |
A beam on which yarn has been wound in a warping machine |
| | |
|
Weave |
The pattern of interlacing of warp and weft in a woven fabric |
| |
|
|
Weave Repeat |
The smallest dimension, ends and picks, on which a weave interlacing can be represented |
| |
|
|
Weaving Shed Efficiency |
The ratio of the ‘Actual output’ to the ‘Possible output’ expressed as a percentage |
| | |
|
Weft |
Threads widthways in a fabric as woven |
Note on equipment manufacturers
The following list of equipment manufacturers is far from being exhaustive, and is only provided for illustrative purposes. The reader is therefore urged to obtain additional names of weaving equipment manufacturers from local equipment suppliers and international trade journals, some of which are listed in the bibliography. It must be stressed that reference to names of firms listed below does not imply endorsement of the latter by the International Labour Office, and any failure to mention a particular firm does not constitute a sign of disapproval.
I. Warping machinery
ARCT, 42300 Roanne, France
Hacoba GmbH, 56 Wuppertal-Barmen,
Federal Republic of Germany
Central India Machinery Manufacturing Co.
(CIMMCO), Gwalior, India
Comat SpA, Firenze, Italy
Tsudakoma Industrial
Co., Nomachi, Kanazana, Japan
Benninger AG, 9240 Uzwil, Switzerland
George
Hattersley and Sons Ltd, Keighley, United Kingdom
Wilson and Longbottom,
Barnsley, United Kingdom
West Point Foundry and Machine Co., Georgia, 31833,
United States
II. Warp sizing machinery and equipment
ARCT, 42300 Roanne, France
SACM, Mulhouse 68054, France
Hergeth, 2820 Breman-Farge, Federal Republic of Germany
Sucker GmbH, 4050 Monchengladbach, Federal Republic of Germany
ZELL J. Kruckels, 7863 Zell, Federal Republic of Germany
Ramallumin, 20025 Legano, Italy
TSUDAKOMA, Kanazawa, Japan
ASISA, Barcelona, Spain
Platt-Sizing, P.O. Box 13, Bolton, United Kingdom
WILSON and LONGBOTTOM, Barnsley, United Kingdom
Barber-Colman Co., Rockford, IL 61101, United Kingdom
West Point Foundry Co., Georgia, United States
III. Pirn winding machinery
HACOBA GmBH, 4050 Monchengladbach, Federal Republic of Germany
SCHLAFHORST, 4050 Monchengladbach, Federal Republic of Germany
SCHWEITER AG, 5620 Velbert 11 - Langenberg, Federal Republic of Germany
BRUGGER SpA, 22100 COMO, Italy
SCHARER AG, 8703 Erienbach, ZURICH, Switzerland
George Hattersley and Sons Ltd., P.O. Box 19, KEIGHLEY, United Kingdom
ABBOTT Machine Co Inc., WILTON, N.H. 03086, United States
IV. Looms (manufacturers and developers)
(a) Hand-looms with fly-shuttle motions
Nilus Leclers, l’Islet, Quebec, Canada.Anders Ervad and Son A/S, Askow, DK-6600 Vejen, Denmark.
Vavstolsfabriken Glimakra AB, Box 125, S-28064 Glimakra, Sweden.
Harris Looms, Emmerich (Berlon) Ltd., Wotton Road, Ashford, Kent, United Kingdom.
George Hattersley and Sons Ltd., North Brook Works, Keighley, United Kingdom.
Intermediate Technology Industrial Services (Development Group Ltd.), Myson House, Railway Terrace, Rugby, United Kingdom.
Mailes Looms, 4620 Glen Haven Rd., Soquel, Calif 95071, United States.
Newcomb Loom Company, P.O. Box 3204, Davenport, Iowa 52808, United States.
Iris Engineering, Coimbatore, India.
AVL Looms, Chico, California, United States.
Balaju Yantra Shala, Kathmandu, Nepal.
(b) Non-automatic power looms
Non-automatic power looms are often supplied by manufacturers of automatic looms. In this case, the latter are simply stripped of the automatic weft replenishment means. Most of the non-automatic looms of this type used in developing countries have been converted from automatic looms of the shuttle-change type. However, a few manufacturers still offer low-cost, non-automatic power looms. Some of these are:
Central India Machinery Manufactures Company, (CIMMCO), Gwalior, India.
Cooper Engineering, Poona, India.
National Machinery Makers, Ltd., Kalwe Thana, India.
British Northrop, Ltd., Blackburn, United Kingdom.
(c) Automatic shuttle looms
‘Hoeck’, 4850 Ensival, Belgium.
Picanol N.V., 8900 Leper, Belgium.
Investa Ltd., 460 01 Liberec, Czechoslovakia.
Central India Machinery Manufacturing Co. Ltd., (CIMMCO), Honest Trading Co., India
Toyoda Automatic Loom Works Ltd., Aichi 448, Japan
Tsudakoma Industrial Co. Ltd., Kanazawa, Japan
Adolph Saurer Ltd., Arbon, Switzerland
Ruti A.G., 8630 Ruti, Zurich, Switzerland
Bently Weaving, Loughborough, Leicestershire, United Kingdom
British Northrop Ltd., Blackburn, Lancashire, United Kingdom
George Hattersley and Sons Ltd, P.O. Box 19, Keighley, United Kingdom
(d) Second-hand and reconditioned looms suppliers
Joseph Kruckels, Munchengladbach, Federal Republic of Germany
Bestex Textile Machinery, Blackburn, United Kingdom
Reconditioned looms, Blackburn, United Kingdom
V. Looming equipment manufacturers
Titan Textile Machines, 2750 Ballerup, Denmark
Exacta-Maschinenbau KG, 7410 Reutlingen 24, Federal Republic of Germany
Schultheis GmbH, 6400 Fulda, Federal Republic of Germany
Zellweger Uster AG, 8610 Uster, Switzerland
Macart Textiles Ltd., Bradford, United Kingdom
Barber-Colman Co., Rockford, IL 61101, United States
AUSTRALIA
Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation,
Division of Textile Industry
GEELONG, Victoria 3216
School of Textile Technology, University of New South
Wales
KENSINGTON, N.S.W.
BELGIUM
Centre Scientifique et Technique de l’Industrie Textile
Belge,
B-1040 BRUXELLES
International Institute for Cotton,
BRUXELLES 4
CZECHOSLOVAKIA
Statny Vyskumny Ustav Textilny (State Textile Research
Institute),
Svut Liberec
FRANCE
Institut Textile de France,
BOULOGNE SUR SEINE
HUNGARY
Textilipari Kutato Intezet (Textile Research
Institute)
BUDAPEST X
INDIA
Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association
(ATIRA)
ATIRA AHMEDABAD
The Bombay Textile Research Association,
BOMBAY 86
The South India Textile Research Association,
SITRA
COIMBATORE
INDONESIA
Institut Teknologi Tekstil,
318 BANDUNG
ISRAEL
Israel Fibre Institute
JERUSALEM
ITALY
Instituto Tecnico Cotoniero dell’ Associazione Cotoniera
Italiana,
MILANO
NETHERLANDS
Vazelinstituut TNO “De Voorzore”,
Entschede
Hengelosestraat 715,
THE HAGUE
PAKISTAN
Pakistan Institute for Cotton Research and
Technology,
KARACHI 1
POLAND
Centralne Laboratorium Przemyslu Bawelnianego
(Central
Laboratory for Cotton Industry)
LODZ, Piotrkowska 276
ROMANIA
Textile Research Institute,
BUCHAREST
SPAIN
Institute Textile y de Curtidos - Centro de Investigación
y
Desarrollo, Patronato Juan de la Cierva,
BARCELONA 17
SWITZERLAND
Institut Batelle,
GENEVE
Institut für Textilmaschinenbau und Textilindustrie,
ZURICH
THAILAND
Fibre Experimental Centre,
BANGKOK 11
UNITED KINGDOM
Shirley Institute,
Didsbury,
MANCHESTER M20 8RX
Department of Textile Industries of the University of
Leeds,
LEEDS
University of Manchester, Institute of Science and
Technology
(UMIST)
MANCHESTER
The Textile Institute,
Blacksfair Street,
MANCHESTER
UNITED STATES
Arthur D. Little Inc.
CAMBRIDGE, Mass. 02140
The Franklin Institute Research Laboratories,
PHILADELPHIA,
Pa 19105
Lowell Technological Institute,
LOWELL, Mass. 01854
USDA Agricultural Research Service,
Southern Utilisation and
Development Division,
NEW ORLEANS, Louisiana 70119
FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY
Institut für Textiltechnik der Rhein-Westf.,
HOCHSCHULE
AACHEN
TURKEY
Bolgne Pamul Arastirma (Regional Cotton Research
Institute)
ADANA
Aitken, J.B.: Automatic weaving (Blackpool, United Kingdom, Columbine Press, 1964)
Bjorg, Kristiansen White: Weaving guide - Lesotho (Geneva, ILO, 1981)
Bruce, R.: A search for an appropriate technology for decentralised cotton spinning industry in rural India (Lucknow, India, Appropriate Technology Development Association, 1977)
Cooper, C.; Kaplinsky, R.: Second-hand equipment in a developing country (Geneva, ILO, 1974)
Duxbury, V.; Wray, G.R.: Modern developments in weaving (Blackpool, United Kingdom, Columbine Press, 1962)
Lord, P.R.; Mohamed, M.H. Weaving: Conversion of yarn to fabric (Durham, United Kingdom, Merrow Press, 1976)
Marks, R.; Robinson, A.T.C.: Principles of weaving (Manchester, Textile Institute, 1976)
Pack, H.: “The choice of technique and employment in the textile industry”, in A.S. Bhalla (ed.): Technology and employment in industry: A case study approach (Geneva, ILO, 2nd. ed., 1981)
Pickett, J.; Robson, R.: “A note on operating conditions and technology in African textile production” in World Development. Vol. 5, 1977, No. 9/10
Snowden, D.C.: The production of woven fabrics (Manchester, Textile Institute, 1972)
Tairo, B.: Automatic looms (India, Textile and Allied Industries, 1974); published in English and Gujarati.
United Nations: Weaving and associated processes, Report of the Lodz Textile Seminars, No. 3, Volume 4 (New York, United Nations, 1970)
UNIDO: Report of the Expert Group Meeting on the Selection of Textile Machinery (Vienna, United Nations, 1967)
UNIDO: Appropriate industrial technology for textiles (New York, United Nations, 1979)
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